Earlier this week, wine big E. & J. Gallo dropped a bombshell: The conglomerate had bought Rombauer Vineyards, probably the most acknowledged Chardonnay producer within the U.S. Two days later, Gallo is again with a second deal that implies white wine could also be the way forward for American alcohol consumption.
Based by Dan Petroski, the San Francisco Chronicle’s 2017 Winemaker of the Yr, Massican produces crisp, zesty, Mediterranean-inspired wines. A number of are constructed from esoteric Italian grapes which might be tough to seek out in California, like Ribolla Gialla, Tocai Friulano and Falanghina. On development with evolving shopper tastes towards wines which might be refreshing, high-acid and decrease in alcohol, the Massican wines are the precise reverse of the wealthy, spherical and buttery Chardonnay that Rombauer made well-known — which is precisely why it is smart for Gallo.
Gallo model supervisor John Irwin mentioned that whereas Massican wines are atypical for California, the acquisition allows the corporate to supply “a stylistic counterpoint.” The model suits with Gallo’s mission to “create a extra inclusive identification for California wine,” he mentioned.
“If somebody’s searching for wine for his or her feast and places a bottle of Massican Hyde Chardonnay into their basket with a bottle of Rombauer Chardonnay, they’ll get two very completely different takes” on Napa’s Carneros area, Irwin continued. “Now it’s a dialog, it’s a deeper manner into wine.”
This marks the third notable wine buy for Gallo in latest months, as the corporate acquired Central Coast energy participant Hahn Household Wines in June. A purchase order worth was not disclosed, however the Massican sale consists of the model and the remaining 2022 stock. (Petroski doesn’t personal a vineyard, tasting room or any vineyards.) Petroski may also keep on as winemaker and figurehead of Massican for the long run, he mentioned, estimating a minimum of 5-10 years.
Impressed by Petroski’s time residing in Italy, Massican developed considerably of a cult following amongst wine insiders since its 2009 launch. It was an on the spot success: All three wines from Massican’s inaugural classic have been placed on the French Laundry’s wine record. However from the start, the previous winemaker for Napa Cabernet home Larkmead Vineyards wished Massican to be greater than a sommelier-beloved boutique model. Whereas lots of his Napa Valley cohorts have targeted on exclusivity, Petroski had his sights set on going mainstream — to turn out to be “probably the most consumed white wines in America” — and he hasn’t been afraid to confess it. He even talked about to the Chronicle again in 2021 the potential of promoting Massican.
“The aim is to create extra accessibility and affordability, and this is a chance for me to try this with out the constraints of a small enterprise,” Petroski mentioned, pointing to a latest report of record-breaking bottle costs in Napa.
However “promoting out” is a controversial transfer for a Napa winemaker, particularly one as outspoken and opinionated as Petroski. He was one of many first within the wine trade to sound the alarm about needing pressing options to local weather change. He’s pushed the boundaries of wine advertising, launching an Instagram journal, an NFT and a white wine emoji to have interaction the youthful shoppers whom wineries are determined to draw. He’s gathered trade leaders to debate well timed matters in an old style salon format.
Dan Petroski reveals netting offering shade for Cabernet vines at Larkmead Vineyard in 2019. The winemaker has bought his white wine-only model, Massican, to E. & J. Gallo.
Liz Hafalia/The ChroniclePetroski has all the time represented himself as one of many little guys valiantly pushing for change and innovation in a complacent trade — anti-establishment, even — whereas conglomerates like Gallo, Constellation Manufacturers and LVMH have ramped up their consolidation efforts and sparked corporatization issues. That is an particularly contentious matter within the ever-expensive Napa Valley, and now, Massican will be a part of a bunch of different luxurious Napa manufacturers which have signed with the Gallo empire in recent times, together with Louis M. Martini, Orin Swift and Pahlmeyer.
So, sure, Petroski is anxious about how his friends will react to his determination to associate with America’s largest wine firm. However he’s additionally excited concerning the future — and the opinions of others have by no means stopped him earlier than.
“I’m tremendous scared about what my friends are going to suppose on a reputational foundation, however the actuality is, I can’t go from 10,000 to 100,000 circumstances with out discovering a monetary associate to assist me fund that development,” he mentioned.
His wants weren’t purely monetary, both. Throughout the harvest season, Petroski sources 11 completely different grape varieties from over a dozen winery websites all through California and makes the wine at three completely different amenities. That’s all whereas managing gross sales and advertising communications, wholesale accounts and the provision chain. “I couldn’t do it alone anymore,” he mentioned. “A number of the logistics are being taken off my plate.”
Additionally essential to Petroski’s determination: The Gallo household is Italian — similar to him and his model — and owns a number of main Italian wine and aperitivo manufacturers. Regardless of preliminary issues, he’s assured that Gallo isn’t seeking to drastically change Massican, and the corporate mentioned it can proceed to assist his inventive whims.
As for his combat in opposition to local weather change, he’s transferring 10,000 circumstances of the 2023 classic into Gallo’s light-weight glass bottle mould. Glass is without doubt one of the wine trade’s largest contributors to the local weather disaster, and this transfer will save roughly 29,000 kilos of glass and 11 tons of carbon yearly, he mentioned.
However Petroski additionally is aware of that scaling a wine enterprise and going company is just not with out rising pains. He initially sourced all of his grapes from Napa Valley. As he elevated manufacturing and tried to maintain costs down, he needed to broaden to different areas. Whereas Gallo has unmatched entry to California vineyards, Petroski mentioned he nonetheless worries about sustaining high quality by means of increased quantity manufacturing.
The expansion potential for his signature blends, Annia and Gemina, can also be restricted, as there merely aren’t sufficient acres planted of the unconventional grapes that he employs. These, alongside along with his costliest providing, the Hyde Winery Chardonnay from Napa ($60), will stay restricted. Massican’s development will as a substitute focus on a Sauvignon blanc and a Pinot Grigio, priced round $25-$30. They’re the 2 hottest white wine varietals within the U.S. behind Chardonnay, and Sauvignon blanc is in a interval of unprecedented demand. There are additionally plans for a brand new white mix priced within the $21-$24 vary.
Massican might by no means match the mania of Rombauer Chardonnay, however Petroski acknowledges the potential to nook growing shopper demand for “lighter, brighter, more energizing wines.”
“The subsequent technology is leaning extra into European consuming and consuming tradition than Boomers are,” he mentioned. “It bodes very well for Massican to proceed that theme.”
Attain Jess Lander: jess.lander@sfchronicle.com; Twitter: @jesslander
